Jelsa and Vrboska on Hvar
Jelsa is a coastal town with a catamaran link via Bol to Split. Do not confuse it with Stari Grad, where the car ferry lands. The beaches of the south coast around Zavala are reached through the village of Pitve. Vrboska lies on the north coast, on a long narrow bay with small stone bridges.
Both towns are easy to combine with the hills inland. If you want a day with local wine, see wine tours on Hvar.
Vrboska
A small harbour on a long, narrow bay.
Vrboska is known for its bay and its small stone bridges. The fortified church of St Mary dates from the 16th century, and the town has a fishing museum. Opening times and prices for both vary, so check them locally rather than plan around them.
Our pick: wine and olive oil tasting in Jelsa
This three-hour car tour includes a tasting in Jelsa with flavoured olive oils and a driver, so you can see the town without driving.
Hand-picked tours, booked through GetYourGuide. Prices are indicative starting prices in euros (as of October 2026). Tap a tour for live availability and the current price in your currency.
Tours and trips from Jelsa
Wine tastings, island days and boat trips, with live prices and availability.
Humac and Pitve
Two villages in the hills, worth the slow drive.
Humac
Humac is a stone settlement on a ridge, around 350 m above the sea. Its houses served as seasonal quarters for people from Vrisnik who worked the fields. Do not expect a full-service holiday village. The village is signed. The keys to the church and the small museum are kept locally, so there are no fixed opening hours and no guaranteed spontaneous entry.
Pitve
Pitve lies inland between Jelsa and the south coast and has two parts, Donje and Gornje Pitve. It has stone rural architecture and the church of St Jacob. You reach it from the main island road 116 near Jelsa.
The Pitve tunnel and the roads
Know the rules before you drive to the south coast.
Pitve to Zavala
The tunnel is about 1,400 m long and 2.3 m wide, with a low rough rock ceiling. Cars pass in alternating single-lane traffic controlled by lights. Bicycles, mopeds and motorbikes are not allowed through it.
A different tunnel
The Selca to Dubovica tunnel is a separate, lit tunnel on the main road towards Hvar Town. The Pitve rules do not apply there.
The old road
The old road over the hill villages is narrow and winding, and the main route uses the other tunnel. More on car hire on Hvar.
Wine slopes of the south
Ivan Dolac, west of Zavala and east of Sveta Nedjelja, grows Plavac Mali on steep south-facing slopes. Having vineyards nearby does not mean a tasting is open, so book a visit ahead.
Getting around Jelsa
Buses, boats and cars on the north coast.
By boat to Bol and Split
One weekday run leaves Jelsa at 06:00, reaches Bol at 06:20 and Split at 07:40. That timetable can change by season and day, so check the current version before you plan around it. Jelsa to Bol on this run is not a general travel time for every service.
By bus
Tickets for local island buses are sold by the driver. An online sale by a national bus company does not automatically count for local services on Hvar. Do not assume a fare or a frequency without checking the timetable for your day.
By car
A rental car needs the vehicle papers, insurance, a valid driving licence and the rental contract. Read the tunnel rules above before you drive to the south coast. Parking and road tips for the whole island are on car hire on Hvar.
Plan the rest of your trip
More from the island.
Jelsa and Vrboska: frequently asked questions
Is Jelsa the same as Stari Grad?
No. The car ferry from Split lands in Stari Grad. Jelsa has a catamaran link via Bol to Split.
Can I ride a scooter through the Pitve tunnel?
No. Bicycles, mopeds and motorbikes are not allowed in the tunnel between Pitve and Zavala.
Is Humac open to visitors?
The village is signed and you can walk it. The keys to the church and small museum are kept locally, so do not count on getting in.
What is there to see in Vrboska?
The narrow bay with its small stone bridges, a fortified church of St Mary from the 16th century and a fishing museum.
Where are the south coast beaches?
Around Zavala, reached through Pitve. Check the tunnel rules and the weather before you set out.